Travel guide – Bangkok
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Overview
Chaotic, carnal and congested, Thailand's capital is divided by the Chao Phraya River and is nestled in one of the world's most fertile rice-producing deltas. Bangkok's 579 square miles (1,500 sq km) are criss-crossed by a series of canals carrying passengers and cargo, its roads clotted with endless traffic jams, while the city sprawls in all directions with a hodge-podge of urban, commercial and industrial buildings. A new overland metropolitan railway speeds above the city, providing visitors with a relaxed and efficient way to observe the hustle and bustle below.
Despite its pollution and overcrowding, Bangkok is undoubtedly one of Asia's most exciting cities, and one of the world's largest, promising to reveal to each traveller the wild and untamed mysteries of the east. On the banks of the Chao Phraya visitors will find the Grand Palace as well as Wat Phra Kaeo, the palace temple housing the Emerald Buddha, constructed entirely from translucent green jade. Slightly upriver are the exquisitely ornamented Royal Barges, still used today for special floating processions.
Of the 30 or so temples in Bangkok, the largest is the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, which houses an impressive statue of the deity. The famous Floating Market is a delight to visitors and well worth a visit. As the sun lurches towards the horizon in the west and the sweat cools, this city of royalty and religion comes alive with a palpable decadence. Music and dazzling neon advertise a miasma of trendy bars and nightclubs, as well as the notorious 'girlie joints' that have ensured the Patpong district its reputation for hedonism.
Climate
Bangkok has a hot, tropical climate with daytime temperature reaching the mid-30s throughout the year. November to February is the driest time of year and the most popular with tourists. March, April and May are the hottest months, and the rainy season runs from June to October. During the wet season short showers are likely during the afternoon, though some days it will rain all day.
Health
Travellers should take medical advice at least three weeks before travelling to Thailand. Malaria is a risk outside Bangkok and the major tourist resorts and most physicians will advise immunisation against hepatitis A and typhoid fever. Yellow fever vaccination certificates are required from those travelling from infected areas. Since January 2005 there has been an increase in reported cases of dengue fever in the south, particularly the area near the border with Malaysia. There have been recent outbreaks of bird flu among poultry, and several human deaths, although the risk of travellers contracting the disease is slight; contact with live birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked. HIV is rife in the major cities and resorts and food and water-borne diseases are common; drinking bottled or sterilised water is strongly advised. Medical facilities are good in major cities, but good medical insurance is vital: without insurance, or cash/credit card, travellers will not be treated.
The basics
Getting Around
Bangkok is notorious for the huge volume of traffic and traffic jams, but this has eased slightly over the years with the introduction of the elevated monorail, the Skytrain, which currently has two lines running above Bangkok's central areas and provides a much quicker and easier alternative to the bus. The city's first subway is also in progress. The extensive bus system has always been the main form of public transport and they are the cheapest, most frequent mode of travel around the city (Bt3.50 to most destinations), but should be used with care because of pickpockets and bag slashers taking advantage of the squash. The easiest, fastest and most interesting way to get around is on the waterways of the Chao Phraya River where numerous river taxis, long-tail boats and large waterbuses make most tourist sites easily reachable for about Bt10. Tuk tuks (colourful three-wheelers) are the standard way of making short journeys, and are cheaper and quicker than regular taxis, but fares should be negotiated before boarding. Metered and un-metered taxis are air-conditioned, but be aware that drivers don't carry much change. Any taxi or tuk tuk can be hired for a day's tour of the sights (Bt500-800). If in a desperate rush during gridlock, motorcycle taxis can be hired, which are cheaper and faster, but passengers will need nerves of steel and they should only be used for short distances. They can be recognised by the colourful, numbered vests worn by drivers.
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