Travel guide – french alps
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Overview
The deep valleys and soaring snow-covered peaks of the Alps border France in dramatic splendour, delighting walkers and climbers in summer and offering a challenge to skiers and snowboarders in the winter months.
Downhill skiing was established here towards the end of the 19th century by the English, since when an increasing number of French and international skiers (and more recently snowboarders) have been attracted to the first-rate resorts. French resorts may not be as picturesque as those in Switzerland and Austria but they are some of the most extensive and best; by European standards they are high, mostly between 6,562ft and 9,843ft (2,000m and 3,000m), and have reliable snow. The ski season runs from late November to April and is busiest during the Christmas and Easter holidays.
Climbers and hikers head for the Alps between July and September when the weather is more predictable and the snow above 6,562ft (2,000m) has melted. There are a number of national parks with round-the-park trails requiring one or two weeks walking, there are also longer trans-alpine routes, which should only be attempted by experienced walkers. Local tourist offices supply detailed maps of their area. The towns of Grenoble, Annecy and Chambéry are good bases for hiking. Climbers tend to head to the Chamonix-Mont Blanc area.
Aix-les-Bains is a popular and fashionable family resort and spa town located on the eastern side of Lac du Bourget, the largest natural freshwater lake in France. Although the lake is icy cold, you can sail, fish, play golf and tennis, or picnic on the parkland at the water's edge. The main town of Aix is two miles (three km) inland from the lake and has been built around its thermal springs. Many small hotels line the streets, and streams of visitors take to the baths each day; in the evening, for a change of pace, they play the slot machines at the casino or attend tea dances.
Situated 80 miles (129km) east of Lyon, Annecy has a magical setting on the shore of Lake Annecy at the foot of the Alps. It has been called the Venice of the Alps because of the web of canals that cut through its old town. Annecy is probably the best base for touring the Haute-Savoie region. Just six miles (10km) to its west is Gorges du Fier, a dramatic river gorge. A gangway takes visitors through a narrow gully that has been cut by a torrent of water over the eons; you can hear the roar of the river below. Emerging from this labyrinth, you'll be greeted by a huge expanse of boulders. The site is closed to the public between mid-October and mid-March. Visitors can also take a cruise on the ice-blue lake for which the town is famous.
Évian, on the southern end of Lake Geneva, is famous for its famous mineral waters, which have been bottled since the early 18th century. Many French have second homes in Évian, but visitors come to this chic resort principally to enjoy the creature comforts and spa facilities of its deluxe hotels.
The beautiful university town of Grenoble is situated on the Drac and Isère Rivers, and is surrounded by proud mountains, dramatic gorges and hidden valleys. The prosperous, lively and cosmopolitan city is a base for companies involved in the chemical, nuclear research and electronics industries, but more obviously it is home to 40,000 students, many international. There are some excellent walks among the mountains surrounding the city and there are ski slopes within easy driving distance, but for many tourists Grenoble is simply a stopover before heading further into the Alps.
Megève exudes old-world charm; the small village is huddled around the old church, a medieval tower and the town hall. Among the narrow streets and small squares are antique shops, crowded bistros and old-fashioned butcheries and bakeries. Unlike many French resorts it has remained fairly exclusively French; the upper crust make Megève their winter home when the mistral forces them to leave the Riviera. Furs are the coats of choice for strolling past the trendy boutiques and excellent restaurants. For skiers Megève is fairly uninspiring but Chamonix and Argentiere are within striking distance.
The Three Valleys is the largest ski area in the world and is made up from the linked valleys of Courcheval, Meribel, Les Menuires and Val Thorens. Courcheval is actually three resorts named after their heights, Courcheval 1850 and 1650 are the most exclusive and expensive in the Trois Vallées. Meribel is the middle valley and is the most popular option with families; the slopes here are easier to navigate. It was founded by the British, and English is spoken everywhere. Val Thorens has the highest skiing slopes but it is an ugly resort with large grey apartment blocks providing the background; however it is the favoured destination of many German tourists. The combined ski area comprising the Three Valleys is excellent for beginners and experts alike. There is also a good variety of off-piste skiing when the conditions are right.
Climate
The French Alps offer lots of sunshine, but cold weather from November to April when the ski season is in full swing. The resorts are generally high and the snow is excellent, although the weather is relatively mild in comparison to the North American resorts. During the summer months the cool, sunny weather attracts hikers and climbers, particularly from July to September when the weather has settled and the high snows have melted.
Health
French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.
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