Travel guide – normandy
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Overview
Normandy has a proud and independent history and was one of the major powers of medieval Europe. Colonized by the Vikings from the 9th century, it was home to William the Conqueror who famously defeated King Harold at the Battle of Hastings and in 1066 established the great Norman aristocratic line that remains prominent in England today. This historic event is commemorated in the region's most popular attraction, the marvellous Bayeux Tapestry. It was here, too, in Rouen that valiant Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, and at the chic seaside resort of Deauville that Coco Chanel started a fashion renaissance opening her first boutique. The province is, however, probably best known for the Normandy landings of 1944 when Britain and America began their liberation of France and Europe from Hitler's Germany.
Today Normandy is overwhelmingly agricultural and is appreciated by the gastronomically fastidious French for its excellent produce, particularly dairy and seafood. Fighting in WWII destroyed many of the great medieval towns, but a few treasures still remain and make a trip to Normandy worthwhile.
This ancient Viking settlement is situated a few miles inland, between La Havre and Cherbourg, and was the first French town to be liberated in 1944 during World War II. Fortunately it was spared from too much war damage, and remains full of old world character with wooden houses, some elegant stone buildings and cobblestone roads. Many visitors flock here to explore the sites associated with the war's 'Longest Day' including an interesting D-Day museum and the famous landing beaches (less than 10 miles/16km away). A museum celebrating an older, but equally historic battle is located in the vicinity. This, the Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux, contains the famous tapestry that tells the story of the Battle of Hastings. The 231ft (69m) strip of embroidered linen depicts scenes of Harold’s coronation as the Saxon king of England, him being told of the apparition of a comet (a portent of misfortune), William dressing for war, and Harold’s death. (Admission €6.50 (adult), free for children under nine; open 9am to 6.30pm). Also worth seeing is the Notre-Dame de Bayeux, a fine Norman Romanesque cathedral, rich in sculpture.
Things to do and see in or around Bayeaux
D-Day Beaches
Early on 6 June 1944 the largest armada ever known left England's south coast and set off to liberate France. Shortly thereafter British, American and Canadian soldiers began landing on the beaches. Today veterans and their families walk along the same beaches codenamed Juno, Gold, Sword, Utah and Omaha. A good place to start a battlefield tour is at Arromanches-les-Bains, a few miles northeast of Bayeux. After it was taken by the British 50th Division, this small fishing village was turned into the mammoth military harbour using a prefabricated port that was towed across the Channel. Two and a half million men and 500,000 vehicles landed here. The wreckage of 'Mulberry Harbour' remains just off the beach. A little down the coast are Omaha and Utah, the beaches where the US Division famously landed. The cliffs are still pitted with German bunkers and shell holes, but otherwise these fairly innocuous beaches show little sign of the bloody battles that took place here. Many people come to Normandy to pay respects to the Allied soldiers at the many vast cemeteries along the coast that are maintained so immaculately.
Deauville is the only Norman resort to have any delusions of grandeur. It is at the heart of the Norman Riviera, which in the late 19th century was particularly popular with elite Parisians. It is still known as the "lady" of the French coast, and it was a very fashionable lady, in the form of Coco Chanel, who launched both her own career and the quality status of Deauville as a seaside town when she opened a boutique selling her avante garde pill-box and cloche hats to Edwardian ladies bowed under the weight of huge, elaborate millinery creations. Although the town is overrun with tourists and the Edwardian splendour is fading, some of Chanel’s stylish elegance survives in Deauville. The town hosts numerous events including regattas, race meetings and polo tournaments and offers many diversions in the form of casinos, golf courses and exclusive shops. There is a strip of beach, the Plage de Deauville, which on warm days is packed with sunseekers. Nearby Trouville is a smaller and less glamorous version of Deauville.
By accident or design is not certain, but somehow the quaint fishing village of Honfleur, just across the estuary from busy, bustling La Havre, has managed to make time stand still and presents its many visitors with scenes and experiences largely unchanged for 100 years or more. The town fortunately escaped serious damage during the World War II Normandy landings, and since then development has been minimal. It still functions as a fishing port and follows traditions dating back to medieval times, although it has lost its beach, due to the silting up of the river. Cute Honfleur is certainly worth a visit from La Havre.
The capital of Normandy, Rouen is a centre of industry and commerce; it is the fifth largest port in France and the closest one to Paris, split, like that city, into a right and left bank area by the River Seine. Rouen is also one of France’s most historic cities; William the Conqueror died here in 1087 and in 1431 it was the stage for the trial and execution of Joan of Arc. She was burned at the stake in the Place du Vieux-Marché (the Old Marketplace); the position is still marked by a huge bronze cross. Allied bombing largely destroyed the city; all of its bridges and many of its great churches were ruined, however substantial investment has been focused on restoring parts of the city to its former medieval glory. The great Cathédrale Notre-Dame, immortalised by Monet, remained fairly unscathed and is well worth a visit for its wonderful stonework. Especially interesting is the Chapelle de la Vierge, where the heart of Richard the Lion-Heart is entombed as a token of his affection for the people of Rouen. The chapel also contains the Renaissance tombs of the cardinals d'Amboise. (Open daily 8am to 6pm; admission free). There is no shortage of attractions in Rouen; dozens of churches and some fine museums can be explored including the Musée des Beaux-Art, which is one of France’s best provincial museums and includes the works of great French artists such as Veronese, Velasquez, Caravaggio, Rubens, Poussin, Fragonard, and Monet (including several versions of his Rouen Cathedral).
Climate
The south of France has a warm Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters. Strong winds, known as la Mistral, can occur in the Cote d'Azur, Provence and in the Rhone valley particularly over the winter and spring. Northern France, including Paris, has a temperate climate similar to southern England with warm summers, cold winters and rainfall throughout the year. The western coast, from the Loire valley to the Pyrenees, is milder and summer days are generally very hot. During the second half of July and August most French take their five-week vacation to the coasts and mountains, and empty cities tend to shut down accordingly.
Health
French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.
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