Travel guide – provence
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Overview
No other region of France stirs the imagination and stimulates the senses as strongly as Provence. The soft light and its vivid landscape of pastel colours have inspired writers and artists from F Scott Fitzgerald and from Pagnol to Van Gogh and Picasso. The fragrant countryside redolent with wild herbs is scattered with historic fortified medieval towns such as Avignon and Aix-en-Provence and the ancient Roman towns like Orange and Arles with their great monuments, arches and coliseums. On the coast is the great port of Marseille, a melting pot of cultures so in contrast to the traditional social landscape of most French provincial towns. Low-cost airlines and a fast TGV train from Paris have made Provence increasingly accessible and this, combined with glorious weather, puts it high on any list of the world’s most desirable destinations.
Marseille may well be the dominant metropolis of Provence but Aix-en-Provence, just 15 miles (24km) inland, is arguably the cultural and tourism capital of the province. Historically and socially the two cities are, however, at odds. Aix (pronounced "Ex") is a stunningly beautiful university town whose riches are based on agriculture and academia rather than on heavy industry. The residents of Aix are sophisticated, regarded by their counterparts in Marseille as being snobbish on a par with Parisians. Aix was founded in 122 BC by the Romans and became the capital of Provence, then an independent country. The famous King René of Anjou (1409-80) ruled during this period. He was well known as a patron of science and the arts and was very popular for his love of wine and festivities. After the union of Provence with France and until the Revolution, Aix remained the judicial and administrative headquarters of the region. The town has been the inspiration to many great writers and painters including Guigou, Stendhal, Mistral and Zola. Most famous of all is undoubtedly Paul Cézanne, who was inspired by the Provence countryside to produce his masterpieces, some of which can be seen in his hometown at the Musée Granet, in the Quartier Mazarin. Visitors can also call at his studio close to the town. Aix possesses a wealth of superb architecture that has been carefully preserved and restored. Walking through the Cours Mirabeau and the Rue Gaston de Saporta visitors can admire the private mansions with their sculptured doors and windows and the intricate ironwork on the balconies. On the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance is the ancient Cathedral and in the neighbouring archbishop's palace is the Musée des Tapisseries.
Arles sits on a low hill where the Rhône River branches in two parts to the sea. The town dates back to the 7th century BC and is best known for its amazingly well-preserved Roman arena, Les Arènes, (which is still used and can seat 20,000) in the heart of the city, but there are also many other interesting Roman and medieval ruins. The sites are unique in that they are integrated into the houses and buildings of the town, rather than sitting apart as they do in other towns. The palatial 17th-century Hôtel de Ville, on Arles' central Place de la République, was inspired by Versailles. Its vast entrance hall is built on top of Cryptoporticus du Forum. This vast, dark, dank and wonderfully spooky underground gallery was built by the Romans, possibly as a barracks for public slaves. Across the Place de la République is the Cathédrale St-Trophime whose doorway is one of the most magnificent examples of 12th-century Provençal stone carving in existence. The centre of Arles is truly medieval in character, with its narrow streets winding between the ancient buildings. Van Gogh spent a year in the city in 1888 and produced almost 200 paintings of the town and surrounding area during one of his most prolific periods. Arles is a rather sedate town with little to offer in the way of excitement. Its busiest time is during the Saturday market.
Situated on the River Rhone, Avignon is famed for being the Vatican of the 14th century; six successive Popes resided here from 1309 making it one of Europe’s largest and most important cities of the time. The papacy retreated back to Rome in 1378, but this was just the beginning of a battle between the Italian capital and Avignon for control of the Church's riches and power. Altogether Avignon was the seat for nine Popes, until the last, Pope Benedict XIII, fled into self-exile in 1409. Without the Pope, the city went into a decline that has been exacerbated ever since by floods, fire, the plague and the Le Mistral, the harsh wind that whistles down the Rhone valley in winter. Avignon supposedly was named by the Celts who gave the area the name 'Avenio' or 'the town of violent winds'. Despite all this, Avignon has one of the best-preserved centres in France. Piercing the skyline are the beautiful spires of the Palais des Papes, and along the cobbled streets are countless richly decorated buildings, ancient churches, and spectacular monuments and museums. Imposing medieval walls, built in 1403 by Pope Benedict, enclose the old town. The yearly Avignon Festival draws performers and art enthusiasts from all over France every July. Despite the huge influx of tourists, which double the town’s population of 100,000, this is a wonderful festival and a must-see for anyone in the area.
Things to do and see in or around Avignon
Palais des Papes
Towering over Avignon the imposing Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) is the symbol of the city’s medieval power. The palace consists of the ascetic Old Palace, commissioned by Benedict XII, and the extravagant Gothic New Palace of Clement VI. It was built primarily as a fortress with massive outer walls, battlements and sluices for pouring hot oil onto attackers. Inside the palace, so little remains of the original interior that visitors could be mislead into believing that all the popes and their entourage were as virtuous as the last official occupant, Benedict XIII. In reality the interior was once elaborately decorated, displayed the decadence of the feuding cardinals and their mistresses. The fire of 1413 destroyed most of the decoration and furnishings, but evidence of the once magnificent interior remains including some frescoes, including one painted by Italian artist Matteo Giovannetti in the Great Audience Room. Visitors can take a fascinating tour of the palace taking in the Pope's Bedchamber, the Chapelle St-Martial and the Stag Room. Nearby, dwarfed by the palace, is the 12th-century Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms.
Telephone: (04) 9027 5000 ; Daily 9am to 7pm (mid-March to June), 9am to 9pm (July to September), 9.30am to 6.30pm (November to mid-March)
Petit Palais
Just below the Palais des Papes, the Petit Palais contains a wonderful collection of 13th- to 15th-century paintings and sculpture. Most are the work of Italian masters from that era and, as you progress through the 19 rooms, you can observe how they wrestled with and finally conquered the representation of perspective – a revolution from medieval art, where the size of figures depended on their importance rather than position. The highlights of the collection are Botticelli's sublime Virgin and Child and The Angel of the Annunciation by Sano Di Pietro.
Telephone: (04) 9086 4458 ; Daily 9am to 7pm (April to October); 9.30am to 5.45pm (November to March)
Pont d'Avignon
Behind the Petit Palais is the much photographed Pont d'Avignon, known best from the famous children's song of the same name. The bridge was originally built in the 12th century to shorten the journey for the busy traders ferrying their goods between the Mediterranean and Lyon. The torrents of the Rhône regularly damaged and brought down sections of the bridge and builders finally gave up repairing it in 1660, four centuries after it was built. Today only four of the original 22 arches remain. On the first of the bridge's bulwarks is the tiny Chapelle St-Nicholas, and this delicate Romanesque chapel, dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of bargemen, is well worth a visit.
Telephone: (0)4 9027 5116 ; 9am to 7pm (April, May and October); 9am to 9pm (June to July); 9am to 8pm (August to Septemer); 9.30am to 5.45pm (November to March)
Orange
Ten miles (16km) north of Avignon, Orange was the former seat of the counts of Orange, a title created in the 8th century and passed to the Dutch crown in the 16th century. The family's most famous member was Prince William, who ascended the English throne in 1689. Today the town is best known for its spectacular Roman theatre and triumphal arch, both of which remain remarkably intact. The rest of Orange isn’t strikingly picturesque, however there are pleasant tree-lined streets and squares with some nice cafes and restaurants.
Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a medieval village on the side of a hill, dominated by the ruins of an ancient château towering above. The château was the pope’s summer retreat from the Palais and although all that remains are the foundations and two outer walls, it is still an imposing sight and a wonderful viewpoint. The village below is a maze of well-restored medieval buildings and narrow streets that weave around the hillside. Today life in the village often involves working in the surrounding vineyards or selling the famous wine to the many tourists who visit. The village is 11 miles (18km) northeast of Avignon.
France's second largest and most ancient city is Marseilles. It was conquered by the Greeks and Romans respectively and it is littered with ancient sites and artefacts. Other than its colourful old harbour, the city does not have much appeal in the way of architecture. It is characterised by acres of slumlands and has a reputation for having a very active crime underground. Marseilles is, however, very down to earth and lacks the pretension of most other French cities. The outgoing, friendly people are a cosmopolitan bunch, although about a quarter of the population are North African by descent, and they eschew the style and image consciousness of the rest of the Cote d'Azur.
Things to do and see in or around Marseilles
Palais Longchamp
One of Marseille's most scenic buildings is the Palais Longchamp. Built during the Second Empire, it is the grandiose conclusion of an aqueduct that once brought water from the Durance to the city. Although the aqueduct is no longer in use, water is still pumped into the centre of the colonnade connecting the two palatial wings. Below, a spectacular fountain features an enormous statue of three muscular women above four bulls wallowing in a pool from which a cascade drops four or five storeys to ground level. In the palace's north wing is the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which displays a vast array of paintings from the 16th to the 19th centuries. They include works by Corot, Millet, Ingres, David, and Rubens as well as some 80 sculptures and objets d'art; particularly interesting is a gallery of Pierre Puget sculpture.
Telephone: (0)4 9114 5880 ; Muse des Beaux-Arts: Thursday to Sunday 10am to 12pm and 2pm to 6.30pm
Massif des Calanques
Directly south of Marseille, and to the west of Cassis, is the wild coastline of the Massif des Calanques. Some of France’s most beautiful and dramatic scenery can be found along this 12-mile (19km) stretch of coastline; the sea has cut gorges, up to a mile (two km) deep, into the limestone. Dazzling white limestone cliffs overhang the sea and attract rock climbers and deep-sea divers. The mountains rise up 1,850ft (564m) and are a haven for climbers. Walking tours and boat trips can be organised via the tourist board. The highlight of the Calanques is Sormiou, with its beach, seafood eateries and small harbour. Sormiou is separated from another small but enchanting settlement at Morgiou by Cap Morgiou, which offers a panoramic belvedere with splendid views of both the Calanques and the eastern side of the massif. At Morgiou there are tiny creeks for great swimming.
Beaches
The most popular beach near the city centre is the Plage des Catalans. This marks the beginning of Marseille's corniche that ends at the Plage du Prado, the city's main sand beach, where the water is remarkably clean. There is a nice walk along the corniche which takes you past the Anse des Auffes, a picturesque inlet with small fishing boats beached on the rocks and behind the Plage de Prado to the Parc Borély, which has a boating lake, rose gardens, palm trees and a botanical garden (daily 8am to 9pm; free). Along the Malmousque peninsula are a number of tiny bays and beaches that are perfect for swimming when the mistral wind is not inciting the waves.
Chteau d'If
On the sparsely vegetated island of If is the infamous prison, Château d'If, which is best known as the penal setting for Alexandre Dumas' The Count of Monte Cristo. François I built the fortress here to defend Marseille and its port in the 16th century, and the site later housed a state prison. The cells are horribly well preserved; carvings by Huguenot prisoners can still be seen inside some of the cells. The views back towards Marseille and the mountains beyond are wonderful.
Telephone: (0)4 9159 0230 ; Daily except Mondays 9am to 6.30pm (April to September)
Cassis
Cassis is a beautiful resort town just west of Marseille. Hemmed in by high white cliffs, its modern development has been limited and it retains much of the charm lost by its more high-profile neighbours. Built on the side of a hill, the old village is centred around a shady square where the inhabitants come to cool off and play 'pétanque' on summer nights. Portside posing and drinking aside, there's not much to do except sunbathe and look up at the ruins of the town's medieval castle, built in 1381. A popular excursion is to take a boat trip to the calanques – long, narrow, deep fjord-like inlets that have cut into the limestone cliffs. If you're feeling energetic, you can take the well-marked footpath from the Route des Calanques behind the western beach; it's about a 90-minute walk to the furthest and best calanque, En Vau, where you can climb down rocks to the shore. Intrepid pine trees find root-holds, and sunbathers find ledges on the chaotic white cliffs. The water is deep blue and swimming between the vertical cliffs is an experience not to be missed.
Climate
Provence has a Mediterranean climate with long, hot summers and mild winters. Temperatures along the coast tend to be slightly higher and swimming in the Mediterranean can be enjoyed as late as September/October. Most rainfall occurs in spring (April to May). Provence is renowned for the presence of the Mistral wind, a cold, dry north westerly wind that funnels down the Rhone Valley, often reaching 60 miles per hour (100km/hr), and is at its strongest and most frequent during winter and spring.
Health
French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.
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