Travel guide – aix en provence
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Overview
Marseille may well be the dominant metropolis of Provence but Aix-en-Provence, just 15 miles (24km) inland, is arguably the cultural and tourism capital of the province. Historically and socially the two cities are, however, at odds. Aix (pronounced "Ex") is a stunningly beautiful university town whose riches are based on agriculture and academia rather than on heavy industry. The residents of Aix are sophisticated, regarded by their counterparts in Marseille as being snobbish on a par with Parisians. Aix was founded in 122 BC by the Romans and became the capital of Provence, then an independent country. The famous King René of Anjou (1409-80) ruled during this period. He was well known as a patron of science and the arts and was very popular for his love of wine and festivities. After the union of Provence with France and until the Revolution, Aix remained the judicial and administrative headquarters of the region. The town has been the inspiration to many great writers and painters including Guigou, Stendhal, Mistral and Zola. Most famous of all is undoubtedly Paul Cézanne, who was inspired by the Provence countryside to produce his masterpieces, some of which can be seen in his hometown at the Musée Granet, in the Quartier Mazarin. Visitors can also call at his studio close to the town. Aix possesses a wealth of superb architecture that has been carefully preserved and restored. Walking through the Cours Mirabeau and the Rue Gaston de Saporta visitors can admire the private mansions with their sculptured doors and windows and the intricate ironwork on the balconies. On the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance is the ancient Cathedral and in the neighbouring archbishop's palace is the Musée des Tapisseries.
Shopping
Around the old port plenty of stylish shops are clustered: the Galeries Lafayette department store is ideal for a 'shopfest', along with the fashion boutiques that line the pedestrianised Rue St-Ferreol. Fun stores for browsing can be found on the Cours Julien, and local designers beckon on the Rue de la Tour. The main street of Marseille, La Canabiere, stretches up the hill away from the port, packed with inviting stores and constantly bustling. If you are looking for antiques, make sure you catch the weekend flea market on Avenue du Cap-Pinede. If you are self-catering, treat yourself to some fish at the port, and add tasty fruits and vegetables to your menu at the nearby Marche des Capucins.
Climate
Provence has a Mediterranean climate with long, hot summers and mild winters. Temperatures along the coast tend to be slightly higher and swimming in the Mediterranean can be enjoyed as late as September/October. Most rainfall occurs in spring (April to May). Provence is renowned for the presence of the Mistral wind, a cold, dry north westerly wind that funnels down the Rhone Valley, often reaching 60 miles per hour (100km/hr), and is at its strongest and most frequent during winter and spring.
Health
French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.
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