Travel guide – avignon

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Overview

Situated on the River Rhone, Avignon is famed for being the Vatican of the 14th century; six successive Popes resided here from 1309 making it one of Europe’s largest and most important cities of the time. The papacy retreated back to Rome in 1378, but this was just the beginning of a battle between the Italian capital and Avignon for control of the Church's riches and power. Altogether Avignon was the seat for nine Popes, until the last, Pope Benedict XIII, fled into self-exile in 1409. Without the Pope, the city went into a decline that has been exacerbated ever since by floods, fire, the plague and the Le Mistral, the harsh wind that whistles down the Rhone valley in winter. Avignon supposedly was named by the Celts who gave the area the name 'Avenio' or 'the town of violent winds'. Despite all this, Avignon has one of the best-preserved centres in France. Piercing the skyline are the beautiful spires of the Palais des Papes, and along the cobbled streets are countless richly decorated buildings, ancient churches, and spectacular monuments and museums. Imposing medieval walls, built in 1403 by Pope Benedict, enclose the old town. The yearly Avignon Festival draws performers and art enthusiasts from all over France every July. Despite the huge influx of tourists, which double the town’s population of 100,000, this is a wonderful festival and a must-see for anyone in the area.

Attractions in Avignon

Palais des Papes

Towering over Avignon the imposing Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) is the symbol of the city’s medieval power. The palace consists of the ascetic Old Palace, commissioned by Benedict XII, and the extravagant Gothic New Palace of Clement VI. It was built primarily as a fortress with massive outer walls, battlements and sluices for pouring hot oil onto attackers. Inside the palace, so little remains of the original interior that visitors could be mislead into believing that all the popes and their entourage were as virtuous as the last official occupant, Benedict XIII. In reality the interior was once elaborately decorated, displayed the decadence of the feuding cardinals and their mistresses. The fire of 1413 destroyed most of the decoration and furnishings, but evidence of the once magnificent interior remains including some frescoes, including one painted by Italian artist Matteo Giovannetti in the Great Audience Room. Visitors can take a fascinating tour of the palace taking in the Pope's Bedchamber, the Chapelle St-Martial and the Stag Room. Nearby, dwarfed by the palace, is the 12th-century Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms.

Petit Palais

Just below the Palais des Papes, the Petit Palais contains a wonderful collection of 13th- to 15th-century paintings and sculpture. Most are the work of Italian masters from that era and, as you progress through the 19 rooms, you can observe how they wrestled with and finally conquered the representation of perspective – a revolution from medieval art, where the size of figures depended on their importance rather than position. The highlights of the collection are Botticelli's sublime Virgin and Child and The Angel of the Annunciation by Sano Di Pietro.

Pont d'Avignon

Behind the Petit Palais is the much photographed Pont d'Avignon, known best from the famous children's song of the same name. The bridge was originally built in the 12th century to shorten the journey for the busy traders ferrying their goods between the Mediterranean and Lyon. The torrents of the Rhône regularly damaged and brought down sections of the bridge and builders finally gave up repairing it in 1660, four centuries after it was built. Today only four of the original 22 arches remain. On the first of the bridge's bulwarks is the tiny Chapelle St-Nicholas, and this delicate Romanesque chapel, dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of bargemen, is well worth a visit.

Orange

Ten miles (16km) north of Avignon, Orange was the former seat of the counts of Orange, a title created in the 8th century and passed to the Dutch crown in the 16th century. The family's most famous member was Prince William, who ascended the English throne in 1689. Today the town is best known for its spectacular Roman theatre and triumphal arch, both of which remain remarkably intact. The rest of Orange isn’t strikingly picturesque, however there are pleasant tree-lined streets and squares with some nice cafes and restaurants.

Chteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a medieval village on the side of a hill, dominated by the ruins of an ancient château towering above. The château was the pope’s summer retreat from the Palais and although all that remains are the foundations and two outer walls, it is still an imposing sight and a wonderful viewpoint. The village below is a maze of well-restored medieval buildings and narrow streets that weave around the hillside. Today life in the village often involves working in the surrounding vineyards or selling the famous wine to the many tourists who visit. The village is 11 miles (18km) northeast of Avignon.

Climate

Provence has a Mediterranean climate with long, hot summers and mild winters. Temperatures along the coast tend to be slightly higher and swimming in the Mediterranean can be enjoyed as late as September/October. Most rainfall occurs in spring (April to May). Provence is renowned for the presence of the Mistral wind, a cold, dry north westerly wind that funnels down the Rhone Valley, often reaching 60 miles per hour (100km/hr), and is at its strongest and most frequent during winter and spring.

Health

French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.

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