Travel guide – marseilles
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Overview
France's second largest and most ancient city is Marseilles. It was conquered by the Greeks and Romans respectively and it is littered with ancient sites and artefacts. Other than its colourful old harbour, the city does not have much appeal in the way of architecture. It is characterised by acres of slumlands and has a reputation for having a very active crime underground. Marseilles is, however, very down to earth and lacks the pretension of most other French cities. The outgoing, friendly people are a cosmopolitan bunch, although about a quarter of the population are North African by descent, and they eschew the style and image consciousness of the rest of the Cote d'Azur.
Attractions in Marseilles
Palais Longchamp
One of Marseille's most scenic buildings is the Palais Longchamp. Built during the Second Empire, it is the grandiose conclusion of an aqueduct that once brought water from the Durance to the city. Although the aqueduct is no longer in use, water is still pumped into the centre of the colonnade connecting the two palatial wings. Below, a spectacular fountain features an enormous statue of three muscular women above four bulls wallowing in a pool from which a cascade drops four or five storeys to ground level. In the palace's north wing is the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which displays a vast array of paintings from the 16th to the 19th centuries. They include works by Corot, Millet, Ingres, David, and Rubens as well as some 80 sculptures and objets d'art; particularly interesting is a gallery of Pierre Puget sculpture.
Massif des Calanques
Directly south of Marseille, and to the west of Cassis, is the wild coastline of the Massif des Calanques. Some of France’s most beautiful and dramatic scenery can be found along this 12-mile (19km) stretch of coastline; the sea has cut gorges, up to a mile (two km) deep, into the limestone. Dazzling white limestone cliffs overhang the sea and attract rock climbers and deep-sea divers. The mountains rise up 1,850ft (564m) and are a haven for climbers. Walking tours and boat trips can be organised via the tourist board. The highlight of the Calanques is Sormiou, with its beach, seafood eateries and small harbour. Sormiou is separated from another small but enchanting settlement at Morgiou by Cap Morgiou, which offers a panoramic belvedere with splendid views of both the Calanques and the eastern side of the massif. At Morgiou there are tiny creeks for great swimming.
Beaches
The most popular beach near the city centre is the Plage des Catalans. This marks the beginning of Marseille's corniche that ends at the Plage du Prado, the city's main sand beach, where the water is remarkably clean. There is a nice walk along the corniche which takes you past the Anse des Auffes, a picturesque inlet with small fishing boats beached on the rocks and behind the Plage de Prado to the Parc Borély, which has a boating lake, rose gardens, palm trees and a botanical garden (daily 8am to 9pm; free). Along the Malmousque peninsula are a number of tiny bays and beaches that are perfect for swimming when the mistral wind is not inciting the waves.
Chteau d'If
On the sparsely vegetated island of If is the infamous prison, Château d'If, which is best known as the penal setting for Alexandre Dumas' The Count of Monte Cristo. François I built the fortress here to defend Marseille and its port in the 16th century, and the site later housed a state prison. The cells are horribly well preserved; carvings by Huguenot prisoners can still be seen inside some of the cells. The views back towards Marseille and the mountains beyond are wonderful.
Cassis
Cassis is a beautiful resort town just west of Marseille. Hemmed in by high white cliffs, its modern development has been limited and it retains much of the charm lost by its more high-profile neighbours. Built on the side of a hill, the old village is centred around a shady square where the inhabitants come to cool off and play 'pétanque' on summer nights. Portside posing and drinking aside, there's not much to do except sunbathe and look up at the ruins of the town's medieval castle, built in 1381. A popular excursion is to take a boat trip to the calanques – long, narrow, deep fjord-like inlets that have cut into the limestone cliffs. If you're feeling energetic, you can take the well-marked footpath from the Route des Calanques behind the western beach; it's about a 90-minute walk to the furthest and best calanque, En Vau, where you can climb down rocks to the shore. Intrepid pine trees find root-holds, and sunbathers find ledges on the chaotic white cliffs. The water is deep blue and swimming between the vertical cliffs is an experience not to be missed.
Climate
Provence has a Mediterranean climate with long, hot summers and mild winters. Temperatures along the coast tend to be slightly higher and swimming in the Mediterranean can be enjoyed as late as September/October. Most rainfall occurs in spring (April to May). Provence is renowned for the presence of the Mistral wind, a cold, dry north westerly wind that funnels down the Rhone Valley, often reaching 60 miles per hour (100km/hr), and is at its strongest and most frequent during winter and spring.
Health
French hospitals and health facilities are first class. British, and visitors from other EU countries, are entitled to heavily discounted medical treatment and medicines on presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Otherwise doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. Medical insurance is advised. Pharmacies will provide some first aid, but charge for it. There have been increased reports of hantavirus (caused by rodents) in the Ardennes, Aisne and Jura regions. Rabies also occurs occasionally. In February 2006, France confirmed its first cases of bird flu; all affected birds have been culled and precautionary measures taken. The risk is low for travellers, but close contact with domestic, wild and caged birds should be avoided, and all poultry and egg dishes well cooked.
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