Travel guide – sicily
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Overview
Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, may be just a short hop from the Italian mainland, across the narrow strait of Messina, but it is a world apart in atmosphere and attitude. Everything Italian seems a little more appetising here, not only the food but the history and culture as well.
For a long time Sicily was ignored as a holiday destination, largely because of the Mafia stranglehold and because of the poverty of the people. Today, however, the island is experiencing a tourism boom and a surge in development as the destructive influences of the Mafia wane. Visitors discover that the Sicilian people are gracious, noble and welcoming and that the island itself offers natural and historic attractions of great beauty and enormous interest.
The main cities of Palermo and Catania feature some of the most exquisite architecture in the world, a legacy of the many great civilisations that have vied for control of this strategically situated island over the centuries, from the Greeks and Romans, Arabs and Normans to more recently the French, Spanish and Italians. There are massive Romanesque cathedrals, the best-preserved Greek temples in the world, Roman amphitheatres and magnificent Baroque palaces. The continuous blue skies and temperate climate, lush vegetation and rich marine life all add to the island’s appeal. Nature has given Sicily Mount Etna, Europe’s tallest active volcano, a dramatic coastline and a fertile soil that gives forth much of the bounty on which the island’s unique and delicious cuisine is based.
Just north-west of Sicily lie the Aeolian Islands, the largest of which, Lipari, has become a popular holiday destination with a concentration of tourist facilities in its main town. The town of Lipari is dominated by a cliff-top citadel, built in the 1500s, and buffered by two beaches, the Marina Lunga on which the harbour is sited, and the Marina Corta. Lipari, with its hotels, restaurants and bars, makes a good base for exploring the other islands of the archipelago, including Salina, Filicudi, Stromboli, Panarea and Vulcano, all of which offer beautiful scenery, volcanoes, castles, thermal resorts, watersports, fishing and some lovely volcanic-black beaches. Most visitors get to the Aeolian Islands by ferry from Milazzo, in Sicily, but the more glamorous arrive on yachts.
Corrupt, decaying, noisy, polluted, over-populated, jumbled and crime-ridden. All these unpleasant adjectives can be applied to Sicily’s capital, Palermo, but this does not stop most visitors falling in love with this city on the northwestern coast of the island. It may be exceedingly ugly in some respects, but it is also a place of beauty that is slowly being revived and restored by the determined city fathers to regain a semblance of its former glory. At various times during its varied and colourful history Palermo, beautifully sited on a wide bay under the bulk of Monte Pellegrino, has enjoyed a position as one of the greatest cities of Europe, particularly under Arab and Norman domination in the Middle Ages. The legacy of the past is evident today in its treasure-trove of Byzantine, Baroque and Norman historic buildings and relics in its many museums. The rescue of Palermo has been aided by funds allocated by the European Union and the wane of the reign of the Mafia. Today the pulse of the city beats fast and furious even in the oppressive summer heat in its hectic street markets, cobbled squares and narrow alleyways, where sirens squeal and traffic roars indiscriminately. Old, historic quarters like Kalsa are being restored and restaurants, galleries and cafes are opening to cater for the tourist trade. Several days are required to appreciate the sights of the seething city before moving on to explore the rest of the island.
Things to do and see in or around Palermo
Marionette Museum
One of Palermo’s most unique attractions is the engaging Museo delle Marionette, a museum dedicated to the art of puppetry, which is an age-old traditional Sicilian entertainment. Free shows are often put on in summer, but the museum collection itself, the greatest of its kind in the world, is entertainment enough. Most of the antique puppets on display evoke Norman Sicily, representing chivalrous heroes and Saracen pirates, knights, ladies and troubadours. The collection includes puppets from the Far East and even some English ‘Punch and Judy’ dolls.
Telephone: (091) 328 060 ; Monday to Friday 9am to 1pm and 4pm to 7pm; Saturdays 9am to 1pm
Galleria Regionale
Palermo’s largest art museum, devoted to medieval works, is housed in the Gothic Palazzo Abbatellis, built in 1488. The collection includes several particularly interesting works. The Bust of Eleanor of Aragon by Francesco Laurana, for example, dates from 1471 and is considered to be the epitome of Renaissance Sicilian sculpture, while the beautiful masterpiece painting Our Lady of the Annunciation is considered Antonello da Messina’s greatest work. Also renowned is the chilling Triumph of Death fresco by an unknown 15th-century artist that covers an entire wall.
Telephone: (091) 616 4317 ; Monday, Wednesday, Saturday 9am to 1.30pm; Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 9am to 1.30pm and 3pm to 7.30pm; and Sunday 9am to 12.30pm
Monreale Cathedral
Of all the many architecturally beautiful and fascinating places of worship in Palermo, probably the most renowned is the 12th-century cathedral in the suburb of Monreale, high on the mountain slope about five miles (eight km) from the city centre. The dazzling cathedral is a mixture of Arab, Byzantine and Norman artistic styles, a blend of medieval Christian and Muslim architecture. The magnificent mosaics that cover 68,243 square feet (6,340 sq metres) of the cathedral’s dome and all of the walls on the interior are unsurpassed. The adjacent Benedictine abbey features a cloister with 228 carved stone columns, many inlaid with mosaics, depicting scenes from Sicily’s Norman history.
Daily 8am to 6pm. The abbey cloister is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm, and usually from 3pm to 7pm during the tourist season; Sundays 9am to 12.30pm
Capuchin Catacombs
The subterranean catacombs that contain the mummified remains of about 8,000 ancient inhabitants of Palermo may be macabre, but are fascinating to visit. The Capuchin friars began mummifying and embalming the bodies of the city's nobles back in 1533, and the tradition continued for centuries with the last body (a seven-year-old girl named Rosalia) being embalmed in 1920. After embalming, the corpses were hung along the walls of the catacombs, dressed in their best, which they still wear proudly, like the military officer in an 18th-century uniform complete with tricorn.
Telephone: (091) 212 117 ; Daily 9am to 12pm and 3pm to 5pm (until 7pm in summer)
Palazzo Mirto
The excessive opulence of Baroque is nowhere better demonstrated than in the magnificent Palazzo Mirto, one of the few aristocratic homes of Palermo that is open to the public, offering visitors a glimpse into the lifestyle of Sicily’s noble 19th-century families. The Palace was the residence of the Lanza Filangeri family whose last heir left the estate to the Ministry of Cultural Assets in 1982. Most of the princely rooms and salons are furnished with original items that belonged to the family.
Telephone: (091) 616 4751 ; Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 9am to 1.30pm; Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 9am to 1.30pm and 3pm to 5pm
Regional Archaeological Museum
Some of Europe’s greatest archaeological treasures are tucked away in Palermo’s somewhat musty museum, which is well worth visiting even though it is rather shabby. The collection is housed in several old convent buildings, dating back to the 13th century, and includes artefacts from the Phoenician, Punic, Greek, Roman and Saracen periods found on the island. Highlights include two Phoenician sarcophagi dating from 5 BC, and the Pietra di Palermo, a black slab discovered in Egypt containing hieroglyphics that is known as the ‘Rosetta Stone’ of Sicily. One room is devoted to the marvellous finds unearthed at the temples of Selinunte. There is also an interesting section devoted to underwater archaeology.
Telephone: (091) 611 6805 ; Tuesday to Saturday 8.30am to 6.45pm, Sunday and Monday 9am to 1pm
Ustica
An underwater city and a landscape of petrified black lava are the characteristics of the unusual little island of Ustica in the Tyrrhenian Sea just a short ferry ride 36 miles (57km) north west of Palermo. The ancient volcanic island was originally inhabited by the Phoenicians and fell prey to pirate raids often during the Middle Ages. In the 20th century Ustica became a penal colony. Today the island is a designated national marine park and its crystal clear waters and undersea treasures, particularly the submerged ancient city of Osteodes, attract divers from all over the world. Every year in July the island is the venue for an International Underwater Activity Show.
Solunto
The Roman ruins at Solunto are 10 miles (16km) east of Palermo overlooking the coast near Santa Flavia, on the slopes of Mount Catalfamo. The site was originally a Phoenician village that was expanded by the Greeks who conquered it in 396 BC. By 255 BC it had fallen to the Romans, who rebuilt much of the original town. No complete structures remain and the ruins consist mainly of floors and the lower portions of walls and columns. Portions of mosaics and paintings are still visible. An impressive view of the Gulf of Palermo can be had from the hilltop above Solunto, and there is a small archaeological museum at the site, although most of the artefacts from Solunto are in the Palermo's Regional Archaeological Museum.
Visitors to Syracuse may be forgiven for wondering whether they are in Italy or Greece. This city on the southeastern corner of Sicily’s Ionian coastline once rivalled Athens as the most important city in the ancient Greek world. Its Greek heritage can still be found in abundance in both the ruins of buildings older and more splendid than the Parthenon and in the myths and legends centred particularly on its oldest quarter, the island of Ortygia. Archimedes once strode the streets here and today tourists who stroll around the Neapolis Archaeological Park on the Terminite Hill can still get a feel for Syracuse’s golden age of power and prosperity. As well as the Hellenic relics, Syracuse also boasts more than its fair share of Roman ruins and some fine medieval Gothic architecture and art, all treasures to be singled out from among the uninspiring high-rises and motorways that make up the modern city. Parking is a problem in the city, particularly on Ortygia where most of the medieval sights and the best shops are located, and the heat can become unbearable in the height of summer; however no visit to Sicily is complete without exploring the antiquities of Syracuse. Most visitors prefer to make day trips to the city from the more comfortable surrounding resort areas, where soft white beaches and fine wines can be enjoyed on the shores of the Ionian Sea.
Things to do and see in or around Syracuse
Ortygia
The Ponte Nuova (‘New Bridge’) connects the mainland city of Syracuse to the island of Ortygia, where most of the worthy sights are located. The remains of the Temple of Apollo are sited in the Piazza Pancali; this is the oldest Greek temple in Sicily, built in the Doric style in around 565 BC. The cathedral in the nearby Piazza Duomo is uniquely made up of the original walls of a 5th-century BC Greek temple known as the Athenaion and near the sea, reached along Via Capodieci, which is the mythical Spring of Arethusa. There are medieval relics on the island too, including Maniaces Castle dating from the 11th century. Apart from the many historic sights, the island of Ortygia also offers numerous boutiques and craft shops, as well as restaurants and cafes galore. Several hours are required to explore the island fully.
Paolo Orsi Regional Archaeological Museum
Syracuse’s archaeological museum is one of the most extensive in all of Italy, preserving relics and remains from the Greek, Roman and early Christian eras of Sicily’s history. The museum building itself is ultra-modern, consisting of glass and steel exhibition halls connected in a hexagonal shape. The exhibits cover a vast range, from the skeletons of prehistoric animals to the renowned Landolina Venus statue.
Telephone: (0931) 464 022 ; Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 1pm; Monday and Wednesday 3.30pm to 6.30pm
Parco Archeologico della Neapolis
The archaeological park on the western edge of the city of Syracuse contains the celebrated rock-hewn Greek amphitheatre, capable of holding about 15,000 people, where Euripides and Aeschylus’ works were performed in antiquity. Today Greek dramas are still played here on occasion. Inside a leafy quarry at the site near the theatre is the ear-shaped cavern, the Orecchio di Dionigi, reputedly used by Dionysius as a prison. Nearby is the Roman Amphitheatre, built in the time of Augustus, where gladiators fought each other and wild animals in gory contests.
Telephone: (0931) 66206 ; Daily 9am to 6pm (April to October), 9am to 3pm (November to March)
Catania
The second-largest city in Sicily, Catania sits in the shadow of Europe’s highest volcano, Mount Etna, on the east of Sicily between Syracuse and Taormina. Ugly, decayed and crime-ridden today, it was once called the ‘city of black and white’ because of the use of white marble and black lava to construct its elegant buildings, many of which have since fallen into ruins or been destroyed by war, earthquakes and lava flows. In summer Catania sizzles; it is regarded as the hottest city in Italy with temperatures often soaring to 104ºF (40ºC). Despite its unattractive aspects, Catania is an ancient city, founded in 729 BC, and boasts some interesting historical relics. There are two Roman amphitheatres, one reminiscent of Rome’s Colosseum, and a 13th-century fortress, Ursino Castle, which is now a museum. The city’s cathedral contains some royal tombs and was built in the 11th century.
Mount Etna
Sicily’s greatest natural attraction is the very active volcano, Mount Etna, which has been spewing lava and shaking the earth for centuries, most recently in 2002. About 20 miles (32km) from Catania the craters below the summit can be reached from the town of Piano Provenzana at the base by mountain bus or on foot. This town also serves as a ski resort in winter, and during summer is a base camp for hikers intent on enjoying the wooded scenery and exploring the interesting caverns in the area. Various species of oak and stone pine, birch and beech trees cover the lower mountain slopes, while frogs, toads, tortoise and Sicily’s ubiquitous lizards hide in the forest streams. Foxes, weasels, squirrels and other small mammals stalk the forests and a plethora of bird species fill the trees and the Gurrida Lake area.
Sicily’s most famous resort town, Taormina, was the 19th-century haunt of British aristocracy and the place chosen by D H Lawrence to write his erotic novel, Lady Chatterley’s Lover. The town boasts what is surely the most photographed view in Sicily, across the beautiful ancient Greek amphitheatre to the sea with Mount Etna in the background. Taormina today remains Sicily’s favourite tourist haunt with its winding medieval streets and tiny passages hiding some great restaurants, cafes and ice-cream parlours, some hidden in secluded gardens and others in pleasant squares or terraces with sea views. It is a great place to shop, too, with thousands of boutiques selling crafts, fashion, jewellery, ceramics, mosaics and porcelain dolls. A popular beach is at Giardini-Naxos, a few miles away, and a funicular connects the old town to the coastal area of Mazzaro below. The stone walls of the old city, sited on a plateau, enclose some fascinating archaeological monuments and medieval palaces including the Palazzo Santo Stefano.
Climate
Sicily has a Mediterranean or coastal climate with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. The mountainous interior has cooler temperatures with snowfall during winter, while along the coast winter temperatures average about 50°F (10°C).
Health
There are no specific health risks associated with travel to Italy. EU citizens can make use of Italy's health services provided they have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Cases of the
N1 bird flu were found in swans in southern Italy and Sicily, but there is a low risk of human infection; as a precaution all close contact with wild, caged and domestic birds should be avoided, and poultry and egg dishes should be cooked thoroughly.
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