Travel guide – kathmandu valley
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Overview
Presided over by snow-covered mountains, the Kathmandu Valley is surrounded by verdant agricultural hills scattered with traditional villages and brick houses, rich in ancient holy temples and shrines used by both Buddhists and Hindu worshippers reflecting a great wealth of culture and tradition. Most of the country's ethnic groups are represented in the Valley, particularly in Kathmandu itself, but it is the Newars who are the original inhabitants responsible for development and the splendid art and architecture in the cities.
The Valley is the cultural, political and commercial centre of Nepal and encompasses three cities: Kathmandu the capital; Patan, which has been enveloped by the growing Kathmandu outskirts; and the medieval city of Bhaktapur. Besides these places of historical and cultural interest, there are numerous other fascinating sights spread across the Kathmandu Valley, including the hilltop Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath that is one of the most recognisable symbols of Nepal, the unrivalled Hindu temple of Pashupatinath, the temple of Changu Narayan, and the enormous Boudha stupa that is steeped in Tibetan culture.
Lying just 22 miles (35km) east of Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, also known as the City of Devotees, was the capital of the Kathmandu Valley during the 14th to 16th centuries, and the wealth of fabulous architectural showpieces, soaring pagodas, richly ornamented houses and medieval layout is testament to this period. The whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (an entrance fee of Rs300 or US$5 is charged) and is filled with palaces, temples, statues and squares connected by a maze of largely pedestrian-only streets. The main central square, Durbar Square, boasts many architectural attractions, including the Golden Gate, the 15th-century Palace of 55 Windows and several statues of ancient kings. The second main square of Taumadhi is presided over by the graceful Nyatpola Temple, the tallest in the Valley atop a five-story platform. Bhaktapur is also the centre of traditional pottery and weaving industries in the Kathmandu Valley.
For the unprepared visitor, the capital city of Kathmandu can trigger a sensory overload – it is a heaving city of intriguing and unpleasant smells, incessant noise and pollution, and sights that etch themselves on the memory, if not captured on film. Cows wander the streets of the old city, stepping between steaming piles of rubbish and hooting taxis, and narrow alleyways overflow with spices, vegetables and handicraft shops. Throngs of people thread their way along bustling cobblestone streets lined with examples of an ancient architectural heritage that lead onto open squares surrounded by temples of all shapes and sizes. The largest city in Nepal and the nation’s historical centre, Kathmandu throws together a blend of the country’s varied population and boasts a distinctive, age-old religious influence visible in the daily life of its inhabitants.
Fascinating as this city is however, many people choose to stay outside Kathmandu in one of the Valley towns or mountain resorts and restrict their visit to day trips; or they base themselves in the tourist-orientated Thamel district of the city that offers modern bakeries, smart hotels and upmarket restaurants, along with pushy handicraft and cannabis sellers.
Things to do and see in or around Kathmandu
Durbar Square
Protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Durbar Square is the religious and social heart of Kathmandu’s old city and is a complex of palaces, temples, shrines, statues and courtyards built between the 12th and 18th centuries by the ancient kings of Nepal. The square is a queer assortment of the old and the new - elaborately carved architectural features and curving roofs provide shelter for cows, beggars and weary tourists; Brahman priests and painted Sadhus perform rituals and pose for photos, while souvenir sellers and rickshaw drivers compete for attention among the crowds. Stone lions guard the gates to the Old Royal Palace that contains a number of courtyards and several museums. Set into the palace wall is a 17th-century stone inscription written in 15 languages; it is believed that milk will flow from the spout below if anyone deciphers the entire inscription. On the other side of the square, the Kasthamandap temple is an open pavilion topped by a pyramidal tower, said to be created from the wood of a single tree. It is purportedly the Valley’s oldest building, and the city of Kathmandu derives its name from this ancient temple.
Durbar Square: daily 8am to 5pm. Old Royal Palace: Tuesday to Saturday 9.30am to 3/4pm
Swayambhunath Stupa
The golden spire of the 5th-century Swayambhu stupa is adorned with a colourful fluttering of prayer flags; it crowns a hill overlooking the Kathmandu Valley and offers fantastic views over the city of Kathmandu. Swayambhunath is one of the most recognisable symbols in Nepal and the painted eyes of Buddha watch all who ascend the worn stone steps. It is a World Heritage Site and one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal, and is at the source of the Valley’s mythical beginning. Legend has it that the history of the Valley began with the draining of an ancient lake by an Enlightened Being to reveal the Valley and a lotus flower was transformed into the hill and the shining light became the stupa itself. Swarms of pilgrims and red-clad monks circle the complex, spinning the prayer wheels, while the scores of monkeys that give the temple its nickname, Monkey Temple, prance about in irreverent groups. Interestingly the temple complex is scattered with shrines and statues of Buddhist and Hindu deities and the assortment of pilgrims from both faiths characterises the country’s unique religious harmony.
Royal Chitwan National Park
Of the 14 national parks and reserves in Nepal, the Royal Chitwan National Park is the oldest and the most popular safari destination for visitors. Situated in the sub-tropical Tarai lowlands, the jungle is home to endangered animals such as the one-horned rhinoceros and the Royal Bengal tiger. Other animals include leopards, wild elephants, Indian bison, sloth bears, crocodiles, pythons, monitor lizards, pangolins, and over 400 species of birds. There are different ways to explore the park, but elephant-back safaris are the most popular. Jeep safaris, guided walks, overnight jungle expeditions and canoe trips are also available. There is a wide choice of accommodation ranging from luxury camps or hotels within the park, to budget options on the outskirts.
Climate
Nepal has two seasons – the dry season from October to May and the rainy, monsoon season from June to September. Early spring (March to April) and late autumn (October and November) are the best times to visit, and also offer the clearest mountain views and good weather for trekking. From December to February there is snow on the mountains with freezing temperatures at high altitudes, while the summer months of June to August can be very hot for general travel.
Health
No immunization is required, but vaccinations for cholera, hepatitis A, meningitis, tetanus, diphtheria and typhoid are recommended. Altitude sickness is a real risk for trekkers. There is a risk of malaria between June and September in the low-lying areas including Chitwan National Park. Outbreaks of Japanese encephalitis occur annually, particularly between July and December; vaccination is advised. More than 300 people died in December 2005 from this disease. Untreated water should be avoided; visitors can buy bottled water or purify their own. When trekking it is preferable to treat one's own water rather than leaving a trail of plastic bottles behind; purifying water with iodine is the cheapest and easiest way to treat water. Stomach upsets are likely to be the most common cause of illness in travellers; food in tourist restaurants or 'Western' food should be treated with caution as it is often reheated or left to stand out, and drinks or salads can contain ice or have ingredients washed in dirty water. Standard of care in hospitals varies, but there are traveller's clinics in Kathmandu and numerous pharmacies in the major towns. Medical insurance is essential.
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