Travel guide – costa brava
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Overview
The ruggedly beautiful Costa Brava holiday coast stretches for 100 miles (160km) along the shores of Catalonia in Spain’s north-eastern corner, from Port Bou on the Franco-Spanish border to Tossa del Mar, just north of Barcelona. The coast is filled with high-rise resort developments and modern marinas catering to package tourists, but retains enough green hillsides and lonely, wild cliffs, coves and caves to belie its reputation as one of Europe’s busiest holiday destinations.
Holidaymakers revel in the hidden delights of the craggy coastline, many exploring in boats to seek out deserted coves redolent with pine and citrus trees, fragrant herbs and bright flowers. International resorts and marinas lie in close proximity to relatively unspoilt fishing villages and towns bearing evidence of the area’s rich history with ancient castles and fortifications. Offshore divers revel in the abundance of wrecks to explore in the crystalline waters, while seemingly endless sunshine pours down on stretches of sandy or shingle beach. The untouched natural areas and fishing industry have also resulted in making a holiday here a gastronomic treat. Seafood reigns supreme, from sardines to delicious lobster, but specialities also include local wild game, like boar, duck and rabbit, which can all be washed down with a variety of wines produced from the vineyards that clothe the hillsides.
The most southerly resort on the Costa Brava, Blanes not only attracts international tourists but is also frequented by large numbers of Spanish holidaymakers. Like most coastal towns Blanes has grown from a picturesque fishing village to tourist boomtown. The resort has a two-mile (3km) long stretch of coastline offering sandy bays and rocky coves, the main beachfront lined with high-rise hotels and apartment blocks. Behind the seafront the town still retains some reminders of its past, like the medieval castle of St Joan, several churches and other ancient buildings. Pride of the town are two renowned botanical gardens, which boast thousands of plant species. Along with all the trappings of modern tourism, Blanes also prides itself in giving visitors a taste of the real Spain, offering traditional street markets, several fiestas and folk dancing fairs.
Things to do and see in or around Blanes
Vall de Nuria Rack Rail
About two hours from the coast are the southern slopes of the western Pyrenees, where in winter skiers skim the sides of the valleys, and in summer time nature-lovers enjoy the tranquillity of the Alpine environment. A popular excursion for holidaymakers on the Costa Brava is to take Spain’s only cog railway into the scenic Vall de Nuria north of Girona, surrounded by mountain peaks and passes that form a massive amphitheatre. The rack railway connects with regional trains, departing from the Ribes-Enllac station and travelling to the village of Queralbs.
Telephone: 972 732 020
While equipped with all the infrastructure demanded by modern holidaymakers, the Costa Brava resort town of L’Estartit also allows visitors to enjoy the surrounding natural heritage. Coastal trails extend from the town through dunes and marshes, bicycle trails meander along the banks of the River Ter and just offshore the Medes Islands provide an underwater wonderland. Activities in and around L’Estartit are more relaxed than the more frenetic resorts along the coast, like sail cruises, glass-bottomed boat rides, kayaking, horse-riding, cycling and bird-watching. The town itself offers plenty of exciting shopping and dining options.
Things to do and see in or around L'Estartit
The Medes Islands
Situated scarcely a mile from the beach of the popular resort town of L’Estartit on the Costa Brava, the protected Medes Islands have been dubbed “heaven for divers”. The little archipelago of seven islets and a few reefs forms one of the most important and rich marine reserves in the Mediterranean. The millions of fish and thousands of animal and plant species that inhabit the shallows, crevices and submarine caves at the base of the island cliffs are a delight to behold for divers of all levels, whether splashing with a snorkel or descending to the depths in scuba gear. Visitors can take glass-bottomed boat trips around the islands departing hourly in season from L’Estartit, or arrange a fully-equipped diving trip though one of the numerous tourist diving centres in the resort town.
History may have given way to high-rise hotels, and fishing to foam parties in this former Catalonian trading port, but the region’s fiery spirit is still evident, which is why Lloret de Mar is regarded as the liveliest holiday spot on the Costa Brava. As a resort the town caters for the 18-30s and families with children. There are seemingly hundreds of British bars, discos and clubs to choose from, and the days are packed with programmes of beach frolics and fun. The resort has five rough sandy beaches, a massive water park, aquatic zoo and a theme park. For a taste of the real Spain visitors can revel in the local cuisine or gather in the town’s Placa de la Vila on Saturday evenings to join in when locals dance the traditional Catalonian Sardana dance.
Things to do and see in or around Lloret de Mar
Salvador Dali Museum House
The busy fishing village of Cadaques draws plenty of visitors, but they do not come for the local beach, which is narrow and stony. Rather the resort town’s attractions are its picturesque natural harbour, some excellent restaurants, numerous galleries, fashion and art and craft shops, and the former home-turned-museum of world renowned surrealist painter, Salvador Dali, sited in Portlligat Bay just to the north of the town. Dali’s somewhat bizarre home consists of a labyrinthine cluster of fishermen’s huts, added to the original building in various stages by the artist over a period of 40 years. Visitors are conducted through the house and garden in small groups, having pre-booked.
Telephone: Information and bookings: 972 251 015 ; Open from 10.30am daily, except Mondays and bank holidays (13 March to 6 January). Between 15 June and 15 September no Monday closure. Visitors must pre-book by telephone, fax or email and are admitted in groups every ten minutes during the day
Banyoles
The historic lakeside town of Banyoles just north of Girona is well known for hosting international rowing events, but it is also a fun, attractive and interesting place to visit and perhaps work off some energy in a pedal-boat or on a bicycle. The bright blue lake itself is the only one in the world fed by two merging subterranean rivers, the clean water flowing in at 600 litres a second. There are numerous options available to those wanting to take to the water, from a swimming dock to cruises or hire boats, and a grassy bank for sunbathers or a network of shady footpaths for those who prefer the shore. The town of Banyoles dates from 812, having grown up around a Benedictine monastery, and its old section is full of fascinating ancient buildings. The natural history and archaeological museums are worth visiting, and all is centred on a lovely arcaded square where a traditional market has been held every Wednesday since medieval times.
Telephone: Tourist Office: 972 575573
The largest resort town on the north of the Costa Brava is the busy, crowded port of Roses, founded by the ancient Greeks but sporting few remnants today of its long history besides a crumbling citadel and sections of city wall. Instead the harbour town, where once a handful of British sailors repulsed an attack by Napoleon, is now a mass of typical high-rise resort developments, rising in tiers from a busy harbour and a few miles of man-made sandy beach, abuzz with holidaymakers indulging in all sorts of watersports. There is an aquatic park, go-karts, numerous take-away and fast-food restaurants, scuba centres, cruises from the harbour and all the other amenities required for the mass tourism market. Nature does still entertain the many visitors with a famously beautiful sunset, however, thanks to the west-facing aspect of the town, which catches the light display when the sun dips over the Gulf of Roses.
Things to do and see in or around Roses
Girona
The city of Girona, on the route from the Pyrenees to Barcelona, is one of the most important historical sites in Spain, founded by the Romans and later a Moorish stronghold. Sitting astride the confluence of the Onyar and Ter rivers, this quaint medieval city attracts hordes of tourists from the Costa Brava resorts and Barcelona, all lured by the experience of walking through the old quarter, the Call, with its narrow alleyways and ancient stone houses. Inside the ancient walls are such gems as the 12th-century Benedictine monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants and the14th-century cathedral built in the Catalonian Baroque style. The cathedral is accessed by climbing up 90 steps. It includes a museum containing art works and rare manuscripts. Also of particular interest are the restored 12th-century Arab baths with their central octagonal pool, and the fascinating Jewish quarter where, between the 9th and 15th centuries the culture and religion flourished on the narrow steep streets. The arcaded promenade, the Rambla de la Llibertat, is lined with delightful cafes and shops selling souvenirs, crafts, antiques and curiosities. In addition the city is well supplied with museums and galleries.
Telephone: Tourist office: 972 226 575 ; Tourist office: Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm. Saturday 8am to 2pm and 4pm to 8pm. In July and August the office opens Sundays 9am to 2pm as well
Once a haven for writers and artists, Tossa de Mar is now a favoured holiday destination for families, couples and people from all walks of life who are drawn to this attractive town on the Costa Brava to relax, play, eat, drink and be merry. It’s picturesque cobbled old town, the medieval Vila Vella, is very atmospheric, enabling this resort to retain its historic atmosphere. The beaches are good and sandy, and the town’s position allows for easy access to other coastal resorts and the scenic hinterland for day trips and excursions. Although well supplied with shops, bars and restaurants, Tossa is not designed for all-night revelling.
Climate
Spain is extremely hot during mid-summer, in July and August. The rest of the year the climate is generally temperate in the north, but warm in the south. The best time to visit is during spring or autumn, except for the Atlantic coast, which has heavy rains in October and November. August is the busiest month, while May and October are the best times for both ideal weather and fewer crowds. Madrid and the high central area can get very cold during winter.
Health
There are no health risks associated with travel to Spain, and no vaccination certificates are required for entry. Spain has a reciprocal health agreement with most EU countries, including the UK, providing free emergency health care at State run hospitals. UK travellers should take a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Note that private clinics are not covered, and the scheme gives no entitlement to medical repatriation costs, nor does it cover ongoing illnesses of a non-urgent nature, so comprehensive travel insurance is advised.
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