Travel guide – the coast
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Overview
The Kenyan coast is lined with a mixture of beautiful white sand beaches and tourist resorts, interspersed with Arab and Portuguese forts, overgrown ruins of Swahili outposts and old trading port towns that are the remnants of its fascinating history. The first traders along the coast were Arabs from the Persian Gulf and several settlements developed during the 12th century. The KiSwahili language that evolved as a means of communication between the locals and the Arab traders is still spoken today. Trade continued even after the Portuguese took control of the whole coastal region in 1498 and throughout the towns the architecture reflects the changes in occupation and their cultural differences.
Spectacular coral reefs with colourful plant and fish life provide world-class snorkelling and diving among pristine coral gardens in the pleasantly warm waters of the Indian Ocean. The marine parks at Malindi, Watamu Bay and Shimoni contain undisturbed coral reefs and enormous fish due to the lack of coastal fishing traffic.
Mombasa is the centre of activity in the region and Kenya's second largest town. North of Mombasa the coast is lined with resort complexes catering mainly to package tourists, with luxury accommodation, fine cuisine and excellent services. Calm waters and palm-backed beaches are in abundance. Further north is the resort town of Malindi, as well as Watamu Bay, and the islands of the Lamu Archipelago.
The south coast was once remote and inaccessible, covered in lush forest and renowned for its slave trade and tropical plantations, but today little of the forest remains and it has become part of Kenya's mainstream tourism. The region's popularity is due to its image as an idyllic haven with white beaches and azure waters, where sheltered waters protected by coral reefs invite underwater exploration. The coast is host to a wide range of resorts offering excellent facilities, but also has many less developed getaways. Further south the small fishing village of Shimoni is home to a series of deep coastal caves and is a popular base for diving and deep-sea fishing.
Gentle and relaxed, Lamu is Kenya's oldest inhabited town, and the unhurried way of life has changed little over the centuries. Part of the Lamu Archipelago, Lamu town is reached by boat from the mainland. The narrow, winding streets are crowded with pedestrians, markets, vendors and donkeys. Lovely old Arab houses feature intricately carved doors and lintels and mosques decorate the streets of one of the last remaining Swahili towns from a civilisation that used to be the cultural force along the coast. A Dhow trip is mandatory and sailing around the little islands or to the beautiful beaches is a memorable experience.
Situated 60 miles (40km) north of Mombassa is the lazy, unashamedly hedonistic beach resort of Malindi. For most the main attraction is the dazzling white sandy beaches that line the shore, however for the more energetic there is also some excellent fishing. Trips leave early in seach of barracuda, tuna and marlin, before the heat of the day sets in. One of the few authentic Portuguese relics left on the coast can be found on the cliffs at the southern end of Malindi harbour - the cross of Vasco da Gama bears the Portuguese coat of arms and commemorates his arrival here in 1498. South of Malindi are the Watamu and Malindi Marine National Parks. These protected areas of white coral beaches and stunning blue lagoons are a major attraction for snorkellers and scuba divers. Malindi holidaymakers are also drawn here as the sea is crystal clear in contrast with the resorts' waters, which are muddied by the Sabaki River. Between the two marine parks is the abandoned 15th-century Swahili town of Gedi, where visitors can wander around the ruins of the palace, market place, houses, mosques and pillared tombs.
Hot and humid, Mombasa is the biggest port on the east coast of Africa serving five different countries, and sits at the beginning of the only railway that crosses the Kenyan interior, built by the British in 1901. It is situated on an island linked to the mainland by bridges and surrounded by a natural harbour where commercial shipping mixes with traditional sailing dhows. The main attraction is the commanding 16th-century fort protecting the entrance of the harbour, Fort Jesus, whose remnants relay the story of a historic struggle for control of the coast between the Portuguese and Arabs. Behind, on Treasury Square, is the Government Game Department's Ivory Room, exhibiting elephant tusks, rhinoceros horns, hippopotamus teeth and other animal trophies confiscated from poachers or taken from dead animals on the reserve. The Old Town retains a strong Arab flavour and is the true heart of the city, with an intricate pattern of winding streets alive with the colours of the traditional wrap-around clothing, crammed with faded houses and street sellers, and filled with the heavy scent of spices. It is best to visit the Old Town with an official guide, as mugging is not uncommon. As a large city, Mombasa operates as the hub of the coastal tourism trade, despite its lack of attractive beaches, so most visitors stay long enough to look around before heading either north or south to one the beautiful beach resorts nearby.
Things to do and see in or around Mombasa
Tsavo National Park
The vast Tsavo National Park is only an hour's drive from Mombasa along the main highway to Nairobi. Covering 7,712 sq miles (20,000 sq km), the park is home to giraffe, buffalo, antelopes, monkeys, many exotic birds and Kenya's largest herds of elephant. The elephant often look startlingly red, covered in the dust and mud of the region’s ruddy soil. Visitors are also likely to see rhinos - after being virtually wiped out by poachers in the 1980s their population now numbers almost 200, most are found in the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary. Poaching has now been practically eliminated and the elephant population is also increasing; there are now around 5,000 animals, up from 3,000 in 1985, but still short of the 25,000 that are estimated to have roamed the park in the 1960s. In one of the park's pools is an observation tank from where visitors can get a close-up view of hippos, crocodiles and tropical fish in their natural habitat.
Climate
The rainy seasons are April to June and October to early December. The coast is hot and humid all year round but tempered by strong onshore breezes, the lowlands are hot and dry and the highlands (including Nairobi) are more temperate and cool at night.
Health
The Kenyan Director of Medical Services confirmed on 9 June 2005 an outbreak of cholera in the densely populated Eastleigh area of Nairobi, following five deaths. Although the Provincial Commissioner has banned the sale of food from road-side outlets in the city, it is still widely available. Food prepared by unlicensed vendors should be avoided. Travellers should get the latest medical advice on inoculations and malaria prevention at least three weeks prior to departure. Immunisation against yellow fever, Hepatitis A, polio and typhoid are usually recommended. A malaria risk exists all year round, but more around Mombasa and the lower coastal areas than in Nairobi and on the high central plateau. Other risks include diarrhoeal diseases, hepatitis A, B and E and dengue fever. Protection against bites from sandflies, mosquitoes and tsetse flies is the best prevention against dengue fever and other insect-borne diseases. AIDS is a serious problem in Kenya and the necessary precautions should be taken. Water is of variable quality and visitors are advised to drink bottled water wherever possible. There are good medical facilities in Nairobi and Mombasa but health insurance is essential. A yellow fever certificate is required by anyone arriving from an infected area.
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