Travel guide – the highlands
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Overview
The Highlands of Scotland contain some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. A timeless wonderland, where roads and railways cut through breathtaking mountain views, past the deep and mysterious lochs, through the world’s finest whisky-producing regions, and up to the highest peaks in Britain. The long and dramatic Loch Ness, a short journey from Inverness, with its mythical monster, affectionately known as ‘Nessie’, has attracted thousands over the past century, all eager to catch a glimpse. The region is rich in heritage, and has played host to many bloody battles between the proud and ancient Scottish clans. Off the coast, the Hebrides, Orkney and Shetland Islands with their rugged and dramatic scenery reveal ancient settlements and unspoilt insights into the ancient history of Scotland. A visit to this highland wilderness, despite predictably unpredictable weather, ignites a very basic pleasure and can be a glorious and refreshing experience.
Around Fort William are some of the Highland’s finest natural attractions. Ben Nevis is just to the south of the town and at 4406ft (1,344m) is Britain’s highest mountain. It is a very popular challenge for walkers, but should not be taken lightly, and although the mountain is not massive by international standards, the walk starts near sea level. Climbers should also be prepared for the unpredictable Scottish weather that can quickly turn to sub-arctic temperatures at any time of year. The striking scenery of Aviemore, Cairngorm and Glencoe is nearby; in winter the area opens for skiing, but expect blizzards. Fort William is also a good starting point for the West Highland Way, a footpath that runs along the West coast down to Glasgow. The town itself is peaceful and offers a selection of fine hotels and restaurants.
Things to do and see in or around Fort William
West Highland Railway
The West Highland Railway runs around 100 miles (161km) from Glasgow to Fort William, and then along the West coast through the remnants of the Caledonian forest, Loch Lomond, Glencoe and some of Britain's most spectacular mountain scenery and finest walking country. Passengers can get off at Highland stations and set off on wonderful walks direct from the platform. For a hiker this railway is an absolute gift and for any visitor wanting to explore the Highlands in comfort, a ride on the West Highland Railway is a must. There are three passenger trains running in each direction every day. Walkers should make sure they book accommodation well in advance and remember to bring rainwear and anti-midge cream.
Inverness is the gateway to the Highlands; the town itself has not got much to shout about but nearby are some interesting attractions. Twenty miles (32km) east of Inverness is the low-key resort of Nairn, on the Moray Firth, with its long white beaches and championship golf course, venue of the 1999 Walker Cup. Nearby is the magnificent Cawdor Castle that was featured in Shakespeare’s Macbeth, and Fort George, one of several Hanoverian bastions erected in the wake of the Jacobite rebellion of 1745. The infamous battle and ensuing massacre that ended in Bonne Prince Charlie’s uprising took place on the outskirts of Inverness at Culloden and was the last major battle to take place on British soil. Fort George is one of the most outstanding military fortifications to be found anywhere in Europe. Designed to intimidate the Jacobite Highlanders, Fort George has never seen a shot fired in anger, although today, more than 200 years after it was completed, it is still a working garrison. There is an interesting visitors centre in Culloden, which tells the story of the Jacobite uprising.
Things to do and see in or around Inverness
Loch Ness
Loch Ness is situated in the Great Glen that links Inverness on the East coast to Fort William in the West. The most famous lake is 24 miles (39km) long, half a mile (1km) wide and 700ft (213m) deep and is home to the legendary monster which many claim to have glimpsed from the shore. There are fine walks around the mountains and glens that surround the loch and many head for the scenic ruins of Urquhart Castle or the Nessie exhibition at Drumnadrochit. The four lochs that make up the Great Glen are linked by the Caledonian Canal, which was built in the early 1800s to enable ships to pass from the North Sea to the Atlantic without having to navigate Scotland’s harsh North coast. The most traditional and comfortable way to travel along the glen is by boat, and a flotilla of canoes, yachts and cruising boats are available for hire in Inverness and Fort William. The more energetic may opt to walk or cycle along the 70-mile (113km) Great Glen Way. The walk will take four to seven days.
Linked to the mainland by the Skye Bridge in 1995, Skye is the most scenic and easily accessible of Scotland's many islands and attracts thousands of visitors each year. The weather is unpredictable, but when the sun shines there are few more beautiful places in Europe - it is an island of rough textures, soft colours and fine light that whispers of romance and escape. It was here that Flora Macdonald helped Bonne Prince Charlie escape to France and it is said that they had a short relationship. There is a display on the escape at the Skye Museum of Island Life, and Flora Macdonald's grave lies nearby. Towards the west of the island is Dunvegan Castle, home to the chiefs of MacLeod for over 700 years, and Skye's most famous historical landmark. It has some fascinating exhibits, lovely gardens and a restaurant. Despite a rich and cruel history, which includes Viking invasions and bitter clan feuds, Skye has retained its strong traditions and has a thriving Gaelic culture - the majority still speak Gaelic as their first language. Skye lies on the northwest coast of Scotland, about 250 miles (402km) by car from Edinburgh.
Beyond Inverness and the Great Glen, Scotland stretches away in a spectacular fusion of wooded glens, sweeping moors, rugged coasts, towering mountains and welcoming villages. The Northern Highlands includes both the rich farmland of the Black Isle and the precipitous sea cliffs of Cape Wrath; the traditional crofting communities of North West Sutherland and the busy towns of Easter Ross; the historic fishing villages of Caithness and the wooded straths of Mid Ross; and the popular beaches of East Sutherland and the majestic, beautiful mountains of Wester Ross. Due to its remoteness this huge area is largely overlooked by tourists despite having one of the most dramatic landscapes in Europe.
Climate
Generally, Scotland is cool, damp and cloudy, but daily weather is unpredictable and extremely changeable. January and February are the coldest months, averaging 41°F to 45°F (5°C to 7°C), and summer has average temperatures of 66°F (19°C) during its warmest months of July and August. Scottish weather is on average cooler than that of England. The coldest areas are the highlands and the northern latitude means short winter days and very long summer evenings. The east coast experiences more sunshine, but colder winters, compared to the west.
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